Au Revoir, Rochas

July 20th, 2006 Posted in Fashion News

WWD posted today a postmortem analysis on the demise of the French fashion house of Rochas. It quotes a fashion industry insider as saying, “In fashion you can have a lot of buzz, but it sells or it doesn’t. [Rochas] had no advertising, it had no accessories, no hit bag and the clothing was difficult. [Olivier] Theyskens has talent, but he wasn’t focused. [Balenciaga's] Nicolas Ghesquière has had commercial pressure put on him and that’s proved that it can create energy when done in the right way.”

I think Procter & Gamble was in it for the fragrance business when it puchased Rochas three years ago. They should have waited longer but, being a public company, had to answer to stockholders. Perhaps another luxury brand can pick it up?

The article also mentions Paco Rabanne as seeking “to close down its high-cost Paris operations”. I guess it’s just romanticism on our part to believe that famous couture houses can go on forever. But the reality is, it is a business and today’s market is very cut throat and it takes a lot more than talent and critical acclaim to keep a fashion house viable.

Let’s bid adieu to Rochas but be hopeful that we’ll be seeing its talented creative director, Olivier Theyskens, emerge from this unscathed. **crosses fingers**

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